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Sembalun Lawang
Women Hand-Loom Weavers

Women
hand-loom
weavers in the village of Sembalun Lawang, East Lombok have recently
revived their weaving skills with the help of the NZAID Rinjani Trek
Ecotourism Programme. The women decided they would like to return to
this ancient craft after many years of earning a livelihood by other
means. They now work together in co-operative groups sharing skills
and resources.
In the past weaving was an essential qualification for womanhood,
and young girls began to learn the basic skills at an early age. All
women were expected to provide their family with fabrics for
clothing and ceremonial use. Now, with the widespread availability
of factory-made fabrics, hand-loom textiles are used mostly for
religious ceremonies and special occasions such as weddings.
Using
their
traditional back-strap looms and techniques taught to them by their
grandmothers, these highly skilled women have begun producing a
range of contemporary designs under the guidance of Mataram designer
Epoel Dg Hasanung.
Although the weavers no longer spin and dye local cotton to make
their yarns, the weaving process is nevertheless very labour
intensive. The fine yarns must be washed, threaded onto the loom and
wound onto bobbins before weaving can start a process which can take
several days. Once the looms are set up it takes about a week to
complete a length of this stunning cloth. It may be sold as is, or
sewn into place mats, bags, cushion covers and belts. All the work
is done in the village by local women.
The rich
colours
are achieved by careful selection and blending of basic yarn colours
available from the textile mills of Java. These women are masters of
colour and the simple, modern motifs they now use show this skill
off to great advantage.
How to find the Weavers and Weavings
Include the
scenic
village of Sembalun Lawang on your Round Rinjani drive or island
tour. Set in an ancient and fertile caldera to the east of Mt.
Rinjani, it is one of two entrances to Gunung Rinjani National
Park.Visit the weavers in their home workshops in the centre of
Sembalun Lawang village. Follow the signs in the centre of the
village.
tems can be purchased from the weavers directly or found in selected
outlets in Epoel’s Boutique Senggigi.
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